Model Ship Secrets

Harold Hahn's upside down model ship building principle

2006-12-07T05:40:00.000-08:00

don't fully understands Harold Hahn's principle of building up side down?
It just doesn't look right to me.

{wfultz2003}

Let see if I can help with understanding of Harold Hahn's way. He makes a jig that hold the extension of the frame's upper timbers, and with the keel in place, holds the frames rigidly in three places. Also one should add spacer blocks between the frames, at the widest point, on both sides, to strengthen the frames here for the fairing.

His jig is also a base line that one can measure from, in order to places marks on the frames, taken off the plans, for laying planking, gunports and any other items that goes on a ship.

Another good thing about Harold's jig, it allows one to be able to sand all the frames down on the outside and inside without everything moving out of shape. When building right side up, one has to somewhat wait on fairing most of the outside until all the frames are in and locked in place with clamps and other items, at least for me and am sure others have come up with ways to help them also do the outside when building upright.

When building right side up you could also make a jig along the same lines, as Hahn's jig, but would not have the notches that fits extension of the upper works, but the shape of the ship at her widest point all the way around.

Another good book and very outstanding, which show's this type of set up, that will be a big help, is: The Art of Ship Modeling by Bernard Frolich and can be purchase from Pier books. Mr. Frolich build's ships up right and also use a jig to hold all the frames in place so it doesn't end up looking like a pretzel. Once you have installed all the frames, held in place by the jig, deck clamp's and other items are installed on the inside of the frames, after being faired, the whole assembly become very rigid so one can then take it out of the jig for further work. Mr. Frolich is French and a master shipbuilder. The ships he builds are French, from the plan's done by Jean Boudriot, an outstanding Naval Architect, probably the best in the world of sailing ships. Now whether it is French, English or American ships, his ideas can be used to help one build them right side up. Maybe the reason that right side up looks good, or feels right, that is the way they were really built. I have used both ways to build ships and like the right side up, but would use Hahn's way too. Guess it just depends on the ship one is building. Just to set the record, I have nothing to do with Hahn, Frolich or Pier books other then being a happy customer.
{Gary Bishop}

http://home.att.net/~ShipModelFAQ/

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

Harold Hahn's upside down model ship building principle

2006-12-07T05:39:00.000-08:00

don't fully understands Harold Hahn's principle of building up side down?
It just doesn't look right to me.

{wfultz2003}

His jig is also a base line that one can measure from, in order to places marks on the frames, taken off the plans, for laying planking, gunports and any other items that goes on a ship.

http://home.att.net/~ShipModelFAQ/

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

How to scratch build a model ship hull

2006-12-04T07:38:00.000-08:00

I have some plans I bought from Floating Drydock a few years ago of the Montana-class battleship and Alaska-class cruiser. I'd really love to scratchbuild these guys in the future, which leads me to my inquiry...
None of the articles in the modeling mags show how people have scratchbuilt their ship hulls. I'm wondering what experiences others have had in doing it, especially what techniques work the best for them.

A lot depends on the scale you're using, and on the intended purpose. The best method for a 1:1200 waterline model is probably carving from the solid; for a large model either bread-and-butter, planked bulkhead, or some combination of the two will probably serve best.
{John O. Kopf}

If you are considering building a hull for display on a fairly large scale check the these references: Scale Ship Modeler, June 1995, Mike Winters had an article on building a cruiser (USS Memphis) using bread and butter method using styrofoam insulation panel instead of wood. I have been working on a liner at 1:192 and found this material easy to work with and am quite satisfied with result. I modified Winters technique, though. Try Scale Ship Modeler March/April 1995 where Jack Melody describes building the battleship USS IOWA (1896 vintage) at 1/200 [he means 1:2400! Ed.}, 1 inch=20 ft. using a hull made partly of solid balsa block below waterline and bulkheads above with balsa sheathing.
{Al Rauber}

Mine is not the approved method, but here's how I always did it.

Take appropriate size chunk of wood.
Using saber saw, band saw, whatever's around, cut out the basic outline of the ship.
Make templates from the hull sections on your plans.
Carve/file/sand the hull until it conforms to the templates. OK, that's a gross oversimplification, but the basic technique is there.

I freely admit that I did not use the bread-and-butter method. The reason is that I worked in relatively small scales, (1:500-1:600) and big-enough wood was readily available.
{David R. Wells}

I seem to recall that the Nov/Dec '94 issue of Model Ship Builder magazine had an article about scratch-building a hull of the type you are referring to. I believe the author was a long-time builder of static-display wooden sailing models (I'm working from memory, here) and he decided to build a model of a more modern ship as a change of pace. Some scratch builders construct their hulls with plastic sheet, but his approach was much like building a sailing ship model, with plywood bulkheads and wooden strip planking. If you can find a current issue of MSB, you can probably back-order that issue for about $6.25 or so.
{Brett Denner}

OK, I'll chime in on this. First and foremost, you're in real good shape with those plans. In looking at the listings in The Floating Drydock's catalog, your Alaska plans will have the hull sections you need for building the hull. As for the Montana, go out and find a copy of Dulin & Garzke's U.S. Battleships (ISBN:1-55750-174-2). In the section on the Montana's you'll find a set ofhull lines for her.

Now the fun (?) part. Hull sections (HS) look like a funny drawing of the hull with one half looking aft and one half looking forward. On each of these halves, there are curves lines that are labeled with either numbers or letters. These lines are frame references, and they'll correspond to marks below the outboard profile (OP) view. These marks show where each of the lines on the HS drawing are located according to the OP.

To build from these, I use the plank on frame method. What you want to do is to set out a keel dimensioned to the length of the bottom of the hull on the OP. It doesn't matter the shape right now. Next, use the HS drawing to make each of the bulkheads shown. Now remember, you're looking at half of it, so duplicate the left (or right) side for each bulkhead. Number each bulkhead as you make them so that you can keep track of them. Next. mark the positions of the bulkheads from the OP on to the keel piece. Attach the bulkheads to the keel at the proper places, and you'll have the frame of the ship.

Once you have the frame, the next thing to do is to start placing planking on the outside of it. Use relatively small pieces to do this, and don't worry about making them fit exactly since you'll eventually sand them smooth. Once all of the planking is in place, sand out the rough parts and joints, and you'll have your scratch hull.

Two words of warning.

First, when you're at the point of attaching the bulkheads to the keel, it'll be very delicate. But if you break off one of the bulkheads, just glue it back.
Second, make sure that you allow for the width on material you're using. I use .06" plastic for my hulls, so when I measure out a bulkhead, I've got my calculator programmed to automatically subtract .12" from the overall calculation.

{REDBOZO6}

Since many modern ships have a relatively square cross- section for much of their length, a combination of bread-and-butter for the ends and planked bulkheads for the center work relatively well. ==>

When I've done this, I start with a plank cut to the shape of the lowest waterline. The severely curved ends are build up as bread-and-butter sub-assemblies. The "central" portion of each is rabbeted for the ends of the planks. These ends are fastened to the bottom plank. The intermediate stations are drawn onto plywood, allowing for the thickness of the planking (I don't use a central "backbone", although I have seen others use a "box-beam" here - that's simply a long plywood box that the bulkheads slid onto -- very rigid and torsion-resistant!).

Also allow for a thick strip at the sheer (and, if the curving of the bilge is extensive, I also allow for a block there). The bulkheads are glued to the bottom plank in the appropriate locations, and the shear strip (and bilge blocks, if used) are installed. Planking the remainder is now easy, as the planks will all be relatively straight

http://home.att.net/~ShipModelFAQ/

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96 year old building his 118th model ship....How about you

2006-11-25T01:34:00.000-08:00

Building model ships life hobby for man, 96 - Port Huron Times Herald

Building model ships life hobby for man, 96
Port Huron Times Herald,?MI?- Nov 23, 2006
... After meeting a man who was a draftsman and an enthusiastic model-ship builder, Carle took his instructions and began his own work. ...

technorati tags:model, ship, ships, build

How to bend wood for a model ship

2006-10-13T23:21:00.000-07:00

Started a project on your hull but is having trouble bending the wood for hull?

Here's a few great suggestion..

The best method to use depends upon the dimensions of the stock, and on the degree of bending required. In general, wood should be pre-bent; if it is simply "wrapped" onto the model the resulting tension can easily tear the model apart after a few years. Instead, use one the methods listed below to pre-shape the wood; fasten it after it has "set" and holds the shape by itself. First of all, you'll have better luck if you chose your stock so that the grain runs lengthwise (I've frequently found commercial strips to be severely cross-grained at some point, perhaps with the grain as cut from a board near a knot). A thick or complicated shape may be easiest to form by carving it from the solid -- perhaps laminating the solid from a number of pieces so the grain tends to follow the final curve (I use this technique for sailing ship head-rails, which can be a half-circle in some cases). You can also laminate a piece from a number of thinner pieces bent to a former -- the thinner the individual wood pieces, the easier they are to bend, an the necessary thickness is achieved by gluing these side-to-side over a form...the result will hold it's shape when it's removed from the form. (This method is frequently used to make "mast hoops" by wrapping a glue-coated plane-shaving around a waxed dowel and then slicing off the hoops when it has dried.) Wood can also be bent more easily if it is wet or hot or both. Simply soaking a strip in water will make it more pliable. If you then bend it to shape, and let it dry out it will "spring" back only a small amount. Hot water works better than cold. Wood is a "plastic" material, and thus can be deformed under heat or as a result of chemical softening. Many people use household ammonia for this purpose (instead of soaking in water) -- if you can bear the smell. It may also discolor some woods. You can also hold the strip over a kettle and steam it. The trouble with this is that thin strips cool off so fast that you'll end up working with cold, wet wood by the time you get it in place. For reasonably thick work, such as deck beams, I've had some success either wrapping the stock in wet rags, or floating it in a dish of water, and then microwaving it for about a minute. It's relatively easy to wrap planks around a hull. it's much harder to bend them sideways (i.e., give them an "edge-set"). For some places where I need a plank bent edge-wise (e.g., railings), I find it easier to take a WIDE piece of stock whose thickness is the final width, and bend this piece to shape. I then saw curved planks from the edge. Do not use these methods on multi-layer board (e.g., plywood). Water soaks the glue and causes the board to warp or split. The best way to bend boards is to score the "inside" curve and build a jig. You can also get a good job with the plank-forming pliers and bending jig from Micro-Mark. Jig is adjustable. Using a plank bender without heating or soaking the wood will likely just fracture the wood. {This includes suggestions from: Chris Maxfield, Clayton A. Feldman, Rich Gortatowsky, Ron Ginger, Trevor Farrell, PKAeronaut, Jack Silvia, and Keath Wong.}

Ship Models FAQ --- Revised December 15, 2004

More here..

In bending planks, I use an old soldering iron I got over twenty years ago. It no longer has a label, so I don't know what the wattage is, but the barrel that holds the nib is about 3/4 of an inch in diameter and the nib is about 1/2 inch, and I suspect it runs about 40 watts. I think it might have been used for automotive body work, but don't know for sure. Scrounge the yard sales and flea markets... I find it works better than a plank bender, because a plank bender, at least the ones I've seen, works the arc in the plank while holding the plane of the width of the plank constant. This gives you a nice curve for a plank that would lie on the hull all in a horizontal plane, but hull planks usually sweep up in addition to curving toward the bow and stern. With the soldering iron, I can form both curves at the same time. Here's the steps I go through: 1. Cut the bow and stern taper in 4 planks, leaving them about 4 inches (2 on each end) longer than they need to be on the hull. You use the extra to give you something to hold onto while you bend them and install them. Cut them in pairs, one for each side of the hull. 2. Float them in a soaking tray, (a piece of 4" or 6" pvc capped on both ends, then cut longitudinally in half works well for this) for about a half hour. Flip the planks over and soak for about 15 minutes more. Pay attention to which planks form a pair. Plain, warm water works fine. For some woods adding ammonia helps, for others it makes them more brittle. 3. While you're waiting, cut two more planks and set them aside, clamp the soldering iron in a bench vice (by the handle) so its sticking straight up, and plug it in to heat. 4. Work the flat of a plank against the side of the nib holder of the soldering iron, stretching it and pulling it into shape. For one side of the hull, use the side of the iron opposite to you and pull the bend toward you and up, for the other, use the side nearest you and work the bend away from you and up. Remember that the bends need to be mirror images of one another. Work fairly quickly, and pay attention to how dry the wood is getting. If it dries out completely, it will discolor or burn. Feel free to dunk it into the water if it does begin to dry out too much. What you're doing is making steam that penetrates the wood, pulling it into shape, and cooking the water back out again. 5. Once you have it close to shape, you can install it on the hull. 6. Between installing the first and second planks, put two more into the soaking tray, and cut two more and set them aside. Installing two planks, while two planks are new in the soak tray, seems to work well relative to the timing of the soak. Just keep track of which are new. You should have 4 in the tray all the time you're working. 7. I've been using a cryo based glue (Krazy glue, wood & leather) as my working glue, and it doesn't seem to care if there is still a little moisture in the wood. A day later, I reinforce the joints between the bulkheads and planks with carpenters (Elmer's yellow) for as many strakes as I can reach before the sides meet the deck. I've got two hulls I did in 1986 that don't show any signs of separating, even at the strakes that are held only by cryo, but who knows how they'll look 100 years from now. I also 'nail' my hulls though, so that may also be helping to hold them together. 8. Keep repeating the process from step 4 until you get bored or tired. Then call it quits. When you do, clamp the keel into a keel clamp to make sure it doesn't bend while the wood finishes drying. Note: The important message here is work one plank on each side of the hull at a time, even if you're doing the second layer of a double planked hull. Once the planks are fastened to the bulkheads or inner hull, their environment is different from wherever you were storing them. They change shape and try to straighten back out. Wood is an imperfect medium, so you can't control the shape change. Working port, then starboard, with the help of a keel clamp, tends to average the stresses out by the time you reach the gunnels. You can hide a slightly bent keel, when the distortion is side to side, when you mount the model, but if you hog the hull, there's no way to hide it. Note 2 (for beginners): A keel clamp is fairly easy to make. Get some oak flooring, 2" wide and longer then your hull length, and drill holes about 1/2 of an inch from one edge, so you can put 1/4-20 bolts through and clamp the boards together. Slip your keel in along the opposite edge, between the oak boards. Tighten the nuts down and let it sit overnight. If you want to get fancy, and have a much easier time rigging, you can rig a stand to one side of the clamp so you can hold the finished hull in a bench vice while you're doing the deck houses and rigging.

Ship Models FAQ --- Revised December 15, 2004

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Don't Give Up The Ship!!

2006-09-26T05:39:00.000-07:00

War of 1812 naval hero honored - Cherry Hill Courier Post

AS you may know.. this is a famous sayings by one of the heroes of naval history of the last two centuries..

Click the link below for more of the stories of this famous icon...

War of 1812 naval hero honored
Cherry Hill Courier Post, NJ - Sep 24, 2006
... 1 event from 3 to 5 pm will feature a model ship contest, a nautical birthday cake that will be cut with a sword, sea chanties and other nautical music as well ...

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

Trunnelling?

2006-09-19T06:17:00.000-07:00

What are "Trunnels", and how do I use them?

"Trunnels" are wooden pins (literally "Tree-nails") or dowels that are used to hold wooden parts of a ship together. Trunnels were used instead of metal nails both because they were cheaper, and because metal exposed to salt water promoted rotting of the wood.

Dockyard Model, circa 1730 British model of a Spanish ship, showing large trunnels.

In spite of their appearance on some old models (see right), trunnels were commonly 1 - 1.5 inches in diameter. This table shows the diameter and drill size needed for each diameter at various common scales.

Scale:	1:48 (1/4" = 1')		1:64 (3/16" = 1')		1:96 (1/8" = 1')
Trunnel Diameter	Scale Size	drill	Scale Size	drill	Scale Size	drill
1"	.02083	#76	.015625	#78	.01087	#82
1.5"	.03125	#68	.0234	#73	.0163	#78

Although it's a good idea to pin any parts of a model together (glue has been known to fail), the place where you're most likely to see them used is for attaching planks. Furthermore, planking needs to have hull and deck planking considered separately.

Hull planking was typically trunneled using one or two trunnels per frame (see below for details).
Deck planking, although originally trunneled, was one of the first places where iron spikes were used for fastening. The reason was simple -- trunnels showed as end-grain and wore much less than the edge-grain of the planks themselves; with all the traffic across a deck, trunnels rapidly "grew" into a forest of "stumps" that impeded movement of men and equipment.
The heads of spikes were sunk below the surface of the deck; the resulting hole was filled with a wood plug whose grain ran parallel with that of the deck - these wore at the same rate as the deck planks (and they were much less prominent in appearance than trunnels would have been).
Hint: While some modelers do use trunnels for decks, others find that a small piece of metal tubing (e.g., a hypodermic needle cut off square) can be used to emboss a small circle, in the planking, that represents the plug...just don't sharpen the end too much, or you'll end up cutting plugs out of the deck planks!

Trunnels are typically made by pulling strips of wood through successively smaller holes in a "Drawplate". (Vanda-La Industries used to make a device for making them from toothpicks using power tools, but that product has been discontinued.) The best wood for making trunnels is bamboo (readily available from barbecue skewers) - it's tough and splits easily.

Making a Drawplate

People have used drill gauges as drawplates, but these tend to wear out fairly quickly (bamboo is also abrasive). If you have access to a drill press, a drawplate is relatively easy to make.

Start with a piece of steel about a half-inch wide and 1/8 inch thick ("hanger-bars" for file folders are designed to be snapped off to the length of the file drawer; the waste piece works fine to make your own drawplate).

Start out by laying out a center-line, and drilling a series of 1/16" holes ("dimples") halfway through the steel bar (1, 2). It's well to have more dimples than you need - as the drawplate wears, you can re-drill each hole to the next size larger, and add a new "smallest" hole to the end of the line.

At one end, using your largest hole drill (e.g., #60), drill into the first of your prior dimples until the drill comes out the other side (3, 4). Repeat with the next size smaller drill (e.g., #61) at the next dimple. Continue to your smallest drill (e.g., #80).

Note: if your drill chuck is too loose (or worn) to hold these tiny drills, wrap a few turns of copper wire around the shank to "bulk" up the diameter so the chuck can grab them.

Where each drill broke through, you're likely to have a burr (4). Using a file or sandpaper on a block, smooth these off. Do not ream out the hole! You want the hole to meet the flat surface with a 90 degree sharp edge (5) (this is where the trunnels are shaved to size; any taper to the hole will compress the wood rather than shaving off the surface! It will also speed wear!)

Making Trunnels

Start by splitting the bamboo into pieces that will fit into the largest hole in the drawplate. Sharpen one end so it readily goes into the hole.

Feeding the stock from the "non-dimpled" side into the first hole; pull it through, shaving off the outside surface.

Repeat with the next sized smaller hole. continue until the desired size is reached. It's a good idea to pull the trunnel through the next hole (one size smaller than the drill you're using) as well - moistened with glue, the trunnel is likely to swell slightly.

Using Trunnels

First of all, if the trunnel is not perfectly round (because you split the stock too thin), that doesn't matter - at these sizes, any gap between the trunnel and the plank will be filled with the glue, and the hole is round!

Some people prefer to trunnel each plank as it's applied, drilling each hole and applying a peg before moving on to the next peg. Others add the trunnels after a group of planks have been mounted. The latter approach has much to commend it (provided you remember to mark the lines of fastenings as you go) - drilling a series of holes and then going back to apply a mass of trunnels is significantly faster than doing them one-at-a-time.

Again, some people prefer to carefully clip off each trunnel flush to the planking before moving on to the next; others just snap them off and proceed to the next, coming back later to cut/sand/file/scrape the surface smooth.

The "nailing" patterns vary with period and plank width - a plank 6" wide might have one fastening at each beam/frame (alternating from side to side: , ` , ` , ` )
a 9" plank might have alternate between one and two: : . : ' : ),
while a 12" plank might have two: : : : : : ).
{John O. Kopf (with a lot of input from the Ship Modeling List!)}

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

How To Read A Table Of Offsets..

2006-09-05T07:50:00.000-07:00

Can anyone explain, or point me to an explanation, of how to read a table of offsets? I am looking at the Table of Offsets for the Clipper Ship Sea Witch in Davis' Ship Models - How to Build Them. Thanks.
{John}

You should see the table divided by station lines, sections from bow to stern. Then for each waterline you will see a half-breadth dimension at each of the stations. This gives you the plot points for drawing all the baterlines. Then same thing for the buttock lines, but these will be given in heights above the waterline.

The table should also give the heights of the decks sheer line and the decks heights which will be different from the waterlines as it is a curved line usually.

All the points will be plotted on the waterlines, buttock lines, and on a body plan at each station. Once the points are plotted the waterlines, buttock lines, and station line points should be fair. However, because of measuring errors they will probably not be fair. Consequently after you have all the l ine drawn you need to "fair" all the lines; that is, check all the points and correct any line not correct.

The table of offsets may also have dimensions for "diagonals" which are planes cut diagonally thru the hull.

If you don't know how to read a table of offsets, chances are you don't know how to draw and fair lines either. It takes a little knowledge and experience. You probably will need to read a book on the subject, or in a basic book of naval architecture or boatbuilding.
{Ben Langford}

The table of offsets is used to 'loft' - draw the plans fullsize on the loft floor. It's a complicated process, and you'd need a book on "lofting", which you can find at marine bookstores or at Woodenboat. But realistically, since the book also includes the plans for the Sea Witch, you don't really need the table of offsets. Work from the plans.

If you look at the plans, you'll see that the profile (side) view and section (fore/aft) views have lines marked with numbers (aft of midpoint) and letters (forward of midpoint). These mark the moulds (the slices through the ship that define its shape) and correspond to the numbers/letters in the leftmost column in the table of offsets. The figures in the grid are measurements that correspond to points on the lines, which are then joined to make the smooth curves that make up the plan. The figures in the grid are in the form "3-8-4" which if you look in the lower left corner of the table of offsets, you can see means "Ft. Ins. 8ths", so 3-8-4 means "3 feet + 8 inches + 4/8 inches".
{David Hill}

Lofting a hull from a table of offsets, if you have the gumption to do it, is a wonderfully rewarding exercise that will immeasurably increase your knowledge of and appreciation for hull design.

You can do it to some comfortable scale that fits your available drawing gear. You don't even need to do the whole thing, a few waterlines, a few stations, buttocks, and diagonals and you will soon "understand" the process. Don't have ships curves? Don't need 'em, use those little sticks we call modelling supplies as battens. You can even free hand the curves if all you want to do is learn the process.

If you complete the drawing, you can always overlay and trace a cleaned up neat version. These make wonderful wall hangings, and you can puff out your chest and say "I did it myself"

For the mathematically inclined, the table of offsets is nothing more than the cartesian coordinates that define an ordered set of points on the ships hull. The waterlines, buttocks and stations are an ordered set of fair curves that flow through the points. {Robert M. Crane}

http://home.att.net/~ShipModelFAQ/

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Changing the scale of your plans?

2006-08-22T06:30:00.000-07:00

How does one change the scale of plans?

In the past, people made do with pantographs, proportional dividers, and basically redrew the plans by hand.

Today, people use "copiers" to scale drawings up or down. A typical copier can enlarge or reduce a drawing by from 64% to 142%. Unfortunately, this doesn't help much if you need to change the scale more than this amount. However, you can still get by making partial scale changes -- for example, expanding by 141% and then expanding the first expanded copy by another 141% gives you 1.41 x 1.41 = 1.9881; expanding it by 142% instead gives 2.0022...either is probably close enough to 2x to be acceptable.

Likewise, reducing by 71% twice gives a net reduction of 50.41%; 71% and 70% get you 49.70%, either is probably close enough to 1/2x to be useful.

When enlarging, lines tend to get broader (and "muddier") -- set the copier to "light" to help reduce this effect.

Copiers tend to "stretch" the drawing more in one direction than the other (this is supposedly to prevent the copying of paper money -- the resulting image won't match in change-making machines). If you are doing multiple expansions/compressions, try to change the orientation introduced in one operation is canceled out in the next.

If you anticipate needing multiple copies, do them all at once, using the same batch of paper -- that way stretching or shrinking of the paper is more likely to be uniform for all copies than if you made copies at different times using different lots of paper.

Finally, commercial copy shops can frequently make larger copies, and/or bigger scale-changes with one pass. In order to help them produce a copy of the correct size, draw a pair of lines somewhere on your source, at right angles to one another, and properly scaled and annotated with something like "enlarge to 6 inches long" -- that way you won't have to explain about the (often obscure) scale that is on the plans themselves. (If you are using historical foreign sources, make sure what units are actually being used -- for example, Chapman has scales in Swedish, French, and English feet...all are different!)
{John O. Kopf}

Whatever fits, it seems. Plans I use range from 1/2" = 1' to 1/32"=1' much smaller than this becomes self defeating, even if you are building a model to a smaller scale.

{RAlcorn824}

http://home.att.net/~ShipModelFAQ/

technorati tags:model, ship, ships, wooden

Wood for your model ships?

2006-08-19T00:46:00.000-07:00

What woods are recommended?

A large variety of woods exist...some of these are useful for ship models (prefered woods are bold):

apple	good for planking...bends easily
balsa	TOO SOFT for ship model use! (At least on surfaces; occasionally useful for "spacers" used internally.)
bamboo	tough, easily split; used for trunnels, etc.
basswood	soft but readily available
boxwood	the best for find detail carving
clear pine	for bread-and-butter hulls
cherry	fairly common, fine grain, somewhat brittle
degama	good for masts and spars
ebony	Black! very hard and brittle, doesn't bend easily
holly	White! good for decking, carving
pear	works like cherry but brown instead of red, and not brittle.

Any wood can be stained to look like ebony using black India ink as a stain.
{John O. Kopf}

At some point you are going to substitute the relatively soft, weak wood strips supplied in the kit with very dense, close-grained exotic hardwoods like pearwood, boxwood, lancewood, and applewood. The kit producers will furnish you with basswood because it is commercially available and not very costly. Don't feel badly about upgrading or adding to the materials supplied in the kit.
{Septimus}

For historic ship modeling purposes I would recommend any woods that are hard and have a close or tight grain. I would rate boxwood, apple and pear in that category. Cherry, gum and maple are also good but not as hard as the firstthree mentioned. Basswood is a very stable wood but does not finish well. I have seen Tangyanka and have had no experience in working with it but from all appearances, I think I'll leave it alone as the other woods that I have mentioned allow an excellent color range, are easily worked and finish well.

Have you considered hornbeam, often called ironwood? It has a straight to sometimes irregular grain and has no visible figure. The texture is hard, heavy and with a compact structure. Color is silvery white. It can be worked into small delicate parts and can be carved to very sharp detail. It takes a beautiful polished finish. Price is usually less than holly or boxwood.
{Dana McCalip}

I second the recommendation for maple - rock or sugar maple. I planked the hull and deck of Kate Cory with it. It will take aqueous aniline dyes very well - glues well - is very hard - one of the hardest domestic woods. The figure will vary with the angle of the cut. It is tight grained - no open pores to fill. It is significantly harder than fruit wood or cherry. I have used sycamore (buttonwood) and do not like it -too fuzzy- prominent figure and stinks when cut. When the English write about sycamore (Underhill) they are describing a tree in the maple family I believe.
{Dean Warden}

Also check out the Nautical Research Guild's Article YOUR OWN LUMBER MILL FOR SHIP MODEL BUILDERS.

{John O. Kopf}

http://home.att.net/~ShipModelFAQ/

Model Ship Show Video

2006-08-15T06:29:00.000-07:00

Watch this

A model ship show with great Bismark and other great ship on display..

Enjoy..

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

How do I plank a hull?

2006-08-11T06:44:00.000-07:00

How do I plank a hull?

I think a thorough discussion of planking technology and methodology would go a long way toward helping beginners overcome what many perceive as a major roadblock.

I think maybe a little clarification of the term planking belt may be in order. The primary reasons for dividing the lower hull into "belts" are two. First, breaking the huge, complexly curved expanse of the lower hull into smaller areas to be dealt with one at a time, makes the job easier; easier to comprehend and therefore easier to accomplish.

Second, by making sure that the battens defining the belts are fair (no kinks, humps, sharp curves, wiggles etc.), when viewed from several different directions, you automatically ensure that the finished planking will lie in fair curves on the hull and the finished job will look ship shape. Depending upon the vessel being modeled, there may be anywhere from two to five belts per side, and each belt may contain anywhere from three or four to eight or ten planks. It's usually not necessary to use planking belts above the main wale.

The reason is that the main wale generally follows the sheer line of the vessel and any wales, moldings, rails and planking above it will also follow that line (though decks usually do not, generally being "flatter". This seeming discrepancy can be confusing and misleading, which is why it's a good idea to try to understand the hows, whys and wherefores of 17th, 18th and 19th century ship design so that you understand how to deal with this type of situation). Because everything on the outside of the hull above the main wale is parallel to it (the same distance apart at any point along the length of the hull), there is generally no need to taper the planks above the main wales, so therefore belting isn't necessary. Sheer strake is a term that really applies more to smaller vessels - especially merchantmen - than to larger warship types. The that planking below the level of the main deck and bulwarks). The sheer strake is often defined by an outboard molding, or the outboard edge of the plank sheer, covering board, or even the waterway. Amidships, the sheer strake will generally run at the level of the deck edge. Forward, it will sweep up somewhat higher than the main deck. Aft on a flush decked ship the sheer strake may rise a bit above the level of the deck. If the vessel has a raised quarterdeck, the sheer strake just runs out to the transom in a fair sweep. The Hood Ends of planks are both butt ends, forward and aft, where the butt seats in a rabbet, either in the stem, the sternpost, or along the tuck rail on the wing transom. {Jim Roberts}

Ship Modeling FAQ, Question 071 --- Revised: December 15, 2004

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

A Man' s lifelong hobby.....

2006-08-10T05:40:00.000-07:00

Read on and discover this amazing man forty years fascination with model ships..

Mr Hilder's model Mahogany is no maritime myth

LAURA BANKS August 10, 2006

Peg and Joe Hilder of Gembrook with the model of the Mahogany Ship which he is donating to Flagstaff Hill after lovingly crafting it for a year. Picture: ANGELA MILNE

TALES of life on the high seas led Gembrook man Joe Hilder to begin a hobby that would span more than 60 years. The keen model shipbuilder has completed his 25th ship and made the journey to Warrnambool yesterday to donate his interpretation of the legendary Mahogany Ship to Flagstaff Hill. Mr Hilder's grandfather was a German seaman and would often tell his grandson stories about the seafaring life. This sparked Mr Hilder's love of the ocean and spurred an attempt to ``get on board''. But when his endeavours failed, Mr Hilder turned to building model ships.

For more of this man's story..

Warrnambool Standard

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

Practicum.. what the hell is it?

2006-08-09T08:47:00.000-07:00

What is a "Practicum"; what are available?

Could any one please explain just what the heck a practicum is. How do they work? How much do they cost? What does one get.? Are they any good?
Is it anything like the web based demonstrations I seen on the SMA and Lumberyard sites. If so what guarantee is there that the course will be completed?
{Mark Greene}

A practicum is a step by step treatise on building a particular model of a ship. Currently there are many practicums in progress ranging from Bob Hunt's Constitution series for the kit builder to David Antscherl's (and mine) advanced three year scratch building course on building a Swan class vessel.

As for guarantees there are none that either the practicum will be completed or the builder will complete his/her model. For the former one must evaluate the credentials and reputation of the instructor; for the latter one must make a realistic assessment of his/her own skills.
{Greg Herbert, D.V.M.}

Well, I can give you part of the answer. A practicum is a tutorial that takes you step by step through the building of a model.

I suppose I'm qualified to say that the practicum I'm writing can't give you a cast-iron guarantee of completion because I don't know if the grim reaper may tap me on the shoulder before I'm through. However, there's a reasonable prospect of completion because a) I'm relatively young and b) in reasonable health. I also look both ways before crossing a road.

But, back to the practicum itself. The 'Swan' class practicum takes you through the building of a ship-rigged sloop of the 1770's from the keel up, in sufficient detail down to the last bolt. It is intended for experienced modelers, and should satisfy the most critical.

There are several other practicums out there by other authors. I will leave it to other listees here to give you what their opinions are on the value and usefulness of either my own or others' work.
{David Antscherl}

Tho' I'm a relative newbie, my experience factor has increased significantly because of my participation in several Practicums. There are several currently available, of different formats and for different experience levels. Basically, they are a written step-by-minutia step instruction sets as to how a particular model was actually built by the author. The theory being that the participant following such tiny steps would produce a very acceptable model at the end of the line. Fr. Romero has produced and has still available several, ranging from the Confederacy, Fubbs, to the Warrior. which has an on-line Practicum group similar to this SSL to mutually cuss and discuss each question that may occur in real time, and share problems and successes. Then there's a totally integrated interactive approach taken by author Bob Hunt, with the Model Shipways Constitution and Armed Virginia Sloop kits. Members of his practicums receive monthly CD plus participation in the private on-line interactive discussion group.

One usually gets either a CD or series of CD with the step by step instructions, wood lists, or kit scrutiny, tools suggested, and techniques offered, plus a plethora of photos and drawings, hints, and tips.. or... printed instruction sets, ranging from several hundred pages to over a thousand ore more.

I personally have found all three approaches extremely useful and more than worth the price and effort in personal experience gained. These folks, like many on this list, have done it all before, and willingly share the pitfalls and solutions to those of use so eager to learn..

Price ranges from about "free" to $65 to $135 complete. The Warrior, a huge multi-year undertaking, has 3 volumes already issued at 500 - 600 or more pages available at $80 each , with a 4th coming as the author proceeds in his construction. These larger plank/frame practicums use the Hahn or Portia techniques of hull construction.

Mark, I am sorry for this lengthy dissertation, but your question IS IMPORTANT to many of us newbies, and needed a full answer - since in my opinion, Practicums are the way to go!!!!

I've attached a few links for your perusal. Hope you find them as enlightening as I have!!!!!
{Ron Romanski}

http://home.att.net/~ShipModelFAQ/

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

Problem with resin kits?

2006-08-08T05:57:00.000-07:00

Do you a tough time with your resin kits?

Here's a few tips to deal with them effectively..

I hear reports of problems with some of the "resin" kits?

The following is from: Ted Paris, President, Commanders Series Model Inc.

It has been brought to my attention that a large number of modelers have been having problems with warped resin ship hulls. Having worked daily with resin for the past 7 years I've learned a few truisms which I feel should be passed on.

1. Resin shrinks- The material itself is prone to shrinkage thus some parts may require adjustment for fitting (usually minor).

2. Resin warps- Resin parts (usually hulls) if removed from molds prior to total cure may bend and warp (Resin has a memory). Parts removed or shipped prior to total cure may warp.

-REMEDY- Soften part in hot water and reshape. If this is not successful modeler should contact manufacturer. Our company stands by a total replacement policy. The customer should get all he or she pays for. We immediately respond to all requests for information and parts support. Hopefully modeless will have positive experiences with all aftermarket resin kit's. There are numerous quality products available from an ever growing number of manufacturers.

Ship Models FAQ --- Revised December 15, 2004

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

I have no patience to build that damn ship!

2006-07-12T08:58:00.000-07:00

Here's a few steps to take if you really want to build that
kiss-ass looking model ship now..

First of all, "Patience is that attribute required to do something you DON'T WANT TO DO!" ...if you don't want to build a model, no one will (or CAN) force you to. However, there are a number of thing you can do to make it more likely that your patience will be sustained for the duration of the project: *

Have some idea what you're doing. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS (if it's a kit). If you don't understand (and many instructions are "opaque"), ask someone (see the list of Ship Modeling Clubs)! * If you've never built a (ship) model before, start with a SIMPLE one (see Beginner's Models).

That will help insure that you'll finish in a reasonable amount of time, and will help you understand the terminology (i.e., what you call the "pointy end of the boat", and all those "sticks" and "string"). * Build yourself a "kit". Most people start with the hull, which is typically ~10% of the work/time required, and ~90% of the visual effect (more than once, I've been asked by a visitor if I've done anything to a model since they've last seen it (6 months earlier), because I've spent the 6 months adding details that you have to look for).

Instead, BUILD SUB-ASSEMBLIES FIRST (e.g., the anchor, ship's boats, cannon/carriages, etc.) -- these can be added to a row of parts marching across the "mantelpiece"; every time you look at them you see you're making progress. When you're done, then assemble them into the model. * Contact other modelers (even if not ship modelers). Even if they are not doing the same thing you are, being able to ask a person questions, and explaining your "tricks" is a stimulus to get your interest up again.

Ship Models FAQ --- Revised December 15, 2004

technorati tags:model, ships, ship

What power tools do I need for model shipping?

2006-07-10T07:37:00.000-07:00

Heres' some great suggestion..

What power tools do I need?

The only power tool that you need is a good source of light! However, there are other tools that you might find useful, depending on what you're doing! You may find a small soldering iron useful for forming brass or copper fittings from sheet, strip or wire.

Many modelers find use for a small "grinder" (such as a "Dremel tool" or various equivalents). If you have a choice, get one with variable speed; failing that, get one with low speed(s) available (the common ones run at ~30,000 rpm - far too fast for drilling or sanding activities) - the Dremel MiniMite can be found for about $30, and provides the choice of 6,000 or 12,000 rpm operation.

Many of these tools come with a sack of grindstones, etc. You'll find that you don't use most of these (they're there for other kinds of activities), so don't base you decision on the collection included; instead, get the minimum with the tool and add to your personal set as you find a need. One thing you will find a use for is a full set of "collets" - a set typically contains 1/8", 3/32", 1/16", and 1/32" diameters. The "bits" that come with the tool usually need the 1/8" collet, but bits you scrounge from your dentist are typically 1/16" or 3/32", and drill-bits will use the smallest sizes.

However, even the slowest speed is overly fast for wood, and extremely fast for plastic (you'll melt your way through the plastic rather than cutting it). Remember that the smaller the drill, the faster it can be turned without overheating the drill and work. However, the smaller the drill, the more "brittle" it is, so take great care when attempting to drill extremely small holes free-hand!

(Micro-Mark has a special little chuck for cordless screwdrivers for slow speed drilling; it is made for #60 - 80 bits: [#81653 Micro Chuck - $9.95]; cordless screwdrivers are a little bulky but they run slow and are fairly inexpensive.) The use (not need) for "full-size" power tools will depend a great deal upon your interests - if you also plan to build furniture (or model cases) or have do-it-yourself projects around the home, get tools for these activities that you can also use for modeling (rather than get them for modeling and hope they'll be useful otherwise).

One of the more useful items will be a power drill, either a hand-held unit or a drill-press. The advantage of a drill-press is that the tool is fixed with respect to some surface ("table") which makes it a lot easier to drill holes with the proper alignment (but it won't solve all problems, such as inclined holes for masts). It can also be used to hold a variety of tools (such as "sanding drums") that will make some jobs easier.

Most hand-held units have as an accessory some sort of stand that permits them to be used as a drill-press; however, these are typically much "shakier" than a purpose-build drill-press. When you get to saws, what you will find a use for really depends on what you're doing. Unless you're scratchbuilding, you probably won't need a power saw; conversely, if you're harvesting your own wood from trees, you might want to include a chain saw in your toolkit. In general, however, there are three types of saws of potential interest: "

Table" saw (and the modeler's variants, such as the "Preac"): these are intended to make long straight cuts; you can't cut curves. You are typically limited as to the thickness of the work as well: 2" for a full-size table saw, 1/4" for a modeler's saw. However, they are unexcelled for cutting strips off full-size boards (for making planking, etc.) and making clean, straight cuts. In general, the bigger the blade diameter, the thicker the stock you can saw - if the saw has the power to make such a cut! In general, the resulting surface will be quite smooth, requiring only sanding to finish it. "Scroll " or " Jig " saw: typically has a long arm with a short blade held vertically; the blade readily dismounts to permit replacement or "threading" through a hole in the stock, thus permitting inside cuts.

The disadvantage is that the blade has only a limited degree of motion; you're probably limited to work under an inch in thickness. The key parameter here is the depth of the "throat" (the gap between the back of the blade and the frame) - that limits how long a piece of stock you can cut. "Band" saws have a blade in a continuous loop that passes around a pair (or three) wheels and past a table. These have a large variety of blades available: very narrow (down to 1/16" inch) for the ability to turn sharp corners; very wide (up to several inches - the limit is the particular saw) for ensuring straight cuts (such as "splitting" a board in order to make thin, wide sheets)

. A bandsaw can be used to make inside cuts, but it's certainly not convenient (you either have to cut the blade, thread it through a hole in the work, and re-weld it, or saw through the work and glue the cut when you've done) as a jigsaw. The most useful saw if you have to cut thick stock (can even be used to make boards from logs). The key dimension here is the depth-of-throat (the gap between the side of the blade and the frame); a secondary key is the depth-of-cut - how thick a piece you can saw. Both jig and band saw blades are usually "punched" out of sheet metal - the result is that the blades will tend to cut more aggressively on one side than the other.

This can be a real nuisance if you're trying to cut a straight line using one of these saws - you have to compensate continuously in order to "follow the line". It can be done, however. Also, neither is likely to leave a smooth cut. If you are "milling" your own "lumber", some sort of "thicknessing" device will be useful. These are typically some form of abrasive drum whose surface is parallel to an adjustable table. Passing the stock between the drum and table "planes" one side smooth(er), successive passes on each side will permit the stock to be reduced to the desired thickness. The key dimension here is the length of the drum, since that will determine the maximum width of stock that can be thicknessed. Lathe: a lathe is used to "turn" stock around an axis while a cutting tool is used to remove material from the circumference. Lathes come in two "types":

"Wood" lathe (the cutter is a chisel controlled by hand) and "Metal" lathe (the tool is fixed on some sort of carriage whose motion is controlled by hand-cranked screws). Frankly, neither type is that great an advantage in ship modeling. The most common "cylindrical" objects on a ship model are masts and spars, Steering-wheels, dead-eyes, and belaying-pins; the first of these are awkward to turn because of their flexibility; the latter two will be required in such quantities that making them all identical becomes a chore. The metal lathe has the slight edge in utility because it typically has some form of chuck that can hold the work (the wood lathe more commonly attaches the stock to the lathe for the duration of the operations, and significant time can be spent putting the stock on and taking it off).

Ship Models FAQ --- Revised December 15, 2004

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

Model Ship Scale- What is right?

2006-07-09T07:54:00.000-07:00

Questions of what scale to use when you are making your model ship?

Here's some great suggestion..

What scale should I use? Ship models have been built in various scales, from 6"=1' (the model of the whaling bark Lagoda in the New Bedford Museum) to 1"=100' and even smaller. Obviously, the smaller the scale, the smaller the model (and all of the details thereon); the larger the scale, the easier it is to put in fine detail.

A "museum quality" ship model generally shows all details that will have a dimension of at least 1/16th inch on the model. Common scales are specified in one of two ways, either as a pair of dimensions (e.g., 1/4 inch = 1 foot), or as a dimensionless ratio (e.g., 1:48). The latter is probably a better usage, since one unit on the model corresponds to n units on the actual ship (no matter what units are being used... inches, feet, metric, "points", etc.; it also avoids confusion (is a 1/16 model 1:16 or 1"=16' ?)

Probably the most important criteria is: how much room do you have to display the model? Consider the Queen Mary -- Overall Length = 1,019.5 ft. (310.74 m.) -- admittedly an extreme example, and the U.S.S. Constitution ("Old Ironsides") -- length (between perpendiculars) = 175 ft.

Scale Length of model:

Queen Mary Constitution

1:2 6"=1' 509' 9" 87' 6"

1:3 4"=1' 339' 10" 58' 4"

1:4 3"=1' 254' 10" 43' 9"

1:6 2"=1' 169' 11" 29' 2"

1:12 1"=1' 84' 11" 14' 7"

7:96 7/8"=1' 74' 4" 12' 9"

1:16 3/4"=1' 63' 9" 10' 11"

1:24 1/2"=1' ==> 1" = 2' 42' 6" 7' 3"

1:32 3/8"=1' 31' 10" 5' 6"

1:36 1"=3' 28' 3" 4' 10"

1:48 1/4"=1' (1"=4') 21' 3" 3' 8" (Model Railroad O scale)

1:60 1"=5' 17' 2' 11"

1:64 3/16"=1' 15' 11" 2' 9"

1:72 1"=6' 14' 2" 2' 5"

1:87.1 3.5mm=1' 11' 8.5" 2' 1/12" (Model Railroad HO scale)

1:96 1"=8' 10' 7" 1' 10"

1:120 1"=10' 8' 6" 1' 5.5" (Model Railroad TT scale)

1:128 3/32"=1' 7' 11" 1' 4"

1:160 1/16"=10" 6' 4" 1' 1 1/8" (Model Railroad N scale)

1:196 1/16"=1' 5' 3" 11"

1:384 1/32"=1' 2' 6" 6"

1:500 2' 4"

1:700 1' 6" 3"

1:768 1/64"=1' 1" 4" 3"

1:1000 1' 2"

1:1200 0' 10" 2"

Kits often are to a scale "that fits the box" -- I have an ancient set of kit plans for the Normandy at 1:686 ! And, of course, there are other, "bastard" scales (model railroad "HO" scale is 1:87.1 ==> 3.5 mm = 1'). The "popular" scales seem to be: 1:700 (plastic warships), 1:96 (modern ships), 1:48 (sailing ships), 1:24 & 1:12 (small boats). {John O. Kopf}

Ship Models FAQ --- Revised December 15, 2004

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

What is the difference between basic,immediate and advance kits?

2006-07-08T02:14:00.000-07:00

I wonder too..

Check out the difference below..

What's the difference between Beginner, intermediate, or advanced Kits? This is a good question and difficult to answer. As a designer for Model Shipways, I do not always agree with the final category which appears in the catalog. There is naturally an effort to categorize a model at intermediate or beginner level - more sales!

The recent Pride of Baltimore II kit was desired as a beginners kit, I felt it an advanced kit, so we wound up compromising at intermediate level. Here are some of my thoughts as a designer and model builder:

Beginners - Solid wood hull is often difficult to shape properly and it takes some skill to fit templates and carve correctly. It would then be an intermediate skill. However, many solid hull models can be completed by the beginner simply by sanding it without regard to total accuracy. Consequently, on the smaller models with a solid hull the beginner can handle it. So, the beginner should know something about sanding wood, and at least have the skill to do some "pocket knife" carving. The beginner should have some basic understanding of a ship, knowing a deck from a mast and be able to read the plans and instructions. If the model has rigging, the beginner should be able to at least tie a knot to fake a seizing. Since most models are painted, the beginner should have done some painting with brushes and know how to make reasonably smooth brush strokes. The beginner also needs to know a little something about gluing parts together with white glue.

The beginner should possess the ability to stick with the project a reasonable length of time, understanding that it cannot be built in a hurry, and understand that a wooden model will take a longer time and require more part making than say compared with a plastic model where the parts are basically complete. Intermediate - For solid hulls, the modeler should be able to use gouges and chisels for removing wood and have the patience to work longer on a large hull. For the POB hulls, the modeler should have the skill to use a hobby knife and saw and cut parts accurately to lines. Cutting bevels on the bulkheads and tapering planking is important, and use of the tools is essential. Intermediate models start to have many small parts for deck furniture. The modeler must be able to handle and assemble (glue) small parts together accurately and to keep them to scale. In rigging, there will be more to do, so the modeler must have the patience to spend the time to complete the rig. They should have the ability to "think out" the rigging beforehand, and also know how to push and pull lines about with rigging tool aids. The painting of the model is going to be more difficult. The modeler should know how to plan painting the various parts and proceed in an orderly fashion, so as not to work their way into a hole. Advanced - Most advanced models are really just more of the same. The same skills are required for the most part. The name of the game is patience.

The Flying Fish model from Model Shipways is an advanced project. It was always a big seller to beginners and advanced modelers alike. From old Model Shipways, John Shedd, I was told that it was a good seller, but less-often completed model. Modelers start but never finish the model. My only thought is that they loose patience and get bored with the project over a very long time period. So, you must have the patience and endurance for advanced projects. Like the intermediate model, the advanced model has even more rigging involved, but if you can rig a single mast you can certainly rig two. The skill is the same. An advanced project will require you to do more detailing and the tying of simple knots is not likely to be satisfactory.

Consequently, you should have the skill to make seizings of lines, wrapping them with fine thread. The advanced project will probably get you more into soldering. The Flying Fish is a good example. There are many iron fittings. So, you should have the skill to cut, shape, and solder small brass parts. Sometimes, you can substitute other methods in lieu of soldering. You should have the ability to make these decisions and know that the result will be satisfactory. Painting again will be difficult but should not be any more involved than on an intermediate model. {Ben Lankford}

Ship Models FAQ --- Revised December 15, 2004

technorati tags:model, ship, ships, build

Model Ship In a Bottle Tricks

2006-07-06T06:43:00.000-07:00

Here's a step by step way to put a model ship into a bottle and one way to detect how certain companies put junk ship into a bottle

Ship in a bottle Tricks Beware of bottles with line or rope in the back of the bottle. This is to hide the fact that the bottom of the bottle was cut open to insert the Ship Model, so it is not a true ship in a bottle. This is a Trick done by certain companies that sale junk model ships in bottles. Since putting is a nice ship in a bottle is not easy. Also look at the model in the bottle, some are plastic, this makes it easy to push the model through the next and all the parts just spring back up. So if you want a quality ship in a bottle, I can give you that in your model ship in a bottle. Let me know what you want and I can give you an idea of how long and what it would cost. Thanks Gordon Don't forget to check on my current model ship in progress, click on the link below. Model ships As you can see I have started on a ship in a bottle, but it will be in a light bulb not a bottle. This sequence shows some of the steps required. Click on any of the Pictures to enlarge them.

Ship in a Bottle

this will have a Model Ship in it soon, thinking it should be a clipper ship. Here I have the Light bulb in a box, for safety reasons, if the Light Bulb pops the glass will not fly all over the place.

Ship in a Bottle

After 4 hours of hard work, the element was very hard to remove. This is the Light bulb after removing all the element parts, it was double sealed and was more work than I expected.

Ship in a Bottle

This Clipper ship will be a ship in a bottle or bulb soon. This is the one that will go into the light bulb above.

Ship in a Bottle

Here is the finished model ship in a light bulb. You can click the thumb nails to enlarge them.

Ship in a Bottle

Ruler is shown to show the size of the ship inside the light bulb.

Ship in a Bottle

technorati tags:model, ship, ships

The model ship that hold the record crossing for 50 years..

2006-07-05T07:52:00.000-07:00

Check this model ship which costs more than USD2,000 bucks and is a replica of a legendary ship

Price: $2,846.25Code: AB-SMH01Atlantic - 1903 - Abordage LineSteam Schooner. Kaiser\'s Cup Winner. Designed by William Gardner, Launched 1903 in New-York.At the Turn of the Century, royalty dominated luxury yachting, and races were organized for the pleasure of the wealthiest yacht-owners.In 1905, 11 yachts are invited in Europe to race the Kaiser\'s Cup, offered by the German Kaiser Wilhelm II. Among these luxury yachts, there was a three masted steam schooner Atlantic, 185\' long and owned by Wilson Marshall, who would enter the legend of boating forever.

Atlantic - 1903(Abordage Line): ModelShipShop.com

technorati tags:model, ship

Record Breaking Titanic Model Ship

2006-07-05T06:58:00.000-07:00

The Titanic is given some stick - Metro Cafe

Wow... 4,500 pounds spend, 2 years in the making and 7 million matchsticks later...... a record -breaking model ship with a twist is born

Check out the story below now..

The Titanic is given some stick
Metro Cafe, UK - Jun 2, 2006
The father-of-four has just smashed the world record for making a model ship out of the most matchsticks – the previous best was just 3million. ...

Model Ship Secrets

2006-07-04T06:14:00.000-07:00

Hi

My name is Gold Eddie and as a model ship enthusiast, I am looking forward to share with you my tips, tricks and insights on how to turn model ship building into a super fun hobby..

Till then

Eddie

Model Ship Secrets

Harold Hahn's upside down model ship building principle

don't fully understands Harold Hahn's principle of building up side down? It just doesn't look right to me.

Harold Hahn's upside down model ship building principle

don't fully understands Harold Hahn's principle of building up side down? It just doesn't look right to me.

How to scratch build a model ship hull

96 year old building his 118th model ship....How about you

How to bend wood for a model ship

Don't Give Up The Ship!!

Trunnelling?

What are "Trunnels", and how do I use them?

Making a Drawplate

Making Trunnels

Using Trunnels

How To Read A Table Of Offsets..

Can anyone explain, or point me to an explanation, of how to read a table of offsets? I am looking at the Table of Offsets for the Clipper Ship Sea Witch in Davis' Ship Models - How to Build Them. Thanks. {John}

Changing the scale of your plans?

How does one change the scale of plans?

Wood for your model ships?

What woods are recommended?

Model Ship Show Video

How do I plank a hull?

A Man' s lifelong hobby.....

Practicum.. what the hell is it?

Problem with resin kits?

I have no patience to build that damn ship!

What power tools do I need for model shipping?

Model Ship Scale- What is right?

What is the difference between basic,immediate and advance kits?

Model Ship In a Bottle Tricks

The model ship that hold the record crossing for 50 years..

Record Breaking Titanic Model Ship

Model Ship Secrets

don't fully understands Harold Hahn's principle of building up side down?
It just doesn't look right to me.

don't fully understands Harold Hahn's principle of building up side down?
It just doesn't look right to me.

Can anyone explain, or point me to an explanation, of how to read a table of offsets? I am looking at the Table of Offsets for the Clipper Ship Sea Witch in Davis' Ship Models - How to Build Them. Thanks.
{John}